People in Copenhagen talk about ‘before Noma’ and ‘after Noma’, and it’s impossible to overestimate the effect René Redzepi and his game-changing restaurant have had on his hometown. Noma was like an earthquake shaking the city out of its dull culinary conventions, attracting people to the city, and sending out a great ripple of talented chefs, sommeliers and front-of-housers to do their own thing. This legacy started when the first post-Noma generation headed out to open their own restaurants – Christian Puglisi and Kim Rosen at Relæ, and Søren Ledet at Geranium – and it exploded after Noma first hit the top spot on the World’s Best 50 Restaurants list in 2010. Redzepi showed his peers how to tear up the rulebook and find their own voices, as well as celebrating local traditions and conditions – what he calls time and place. He talks about being true to yourself, and this is the common thread that binds Noma alumni, irrespective of whether they’re running a high-end restaurant like Torsten Vildgaard at Studio, or selling tacos from an outdoor stand in the market like former pastry chef Rosio Sanchez. Former Noma sous chef Puglisi, who has three restaurants and a bakery to his name, says there’s no point doing what everybody else does – you have to do something special, and you have to believe in it. This insight is being applied across the food spectrum, which means there are many ways to explore and experience the Noma effect.