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Taste Guides

A journey through local flavors

  • CREOLE GOES FUSION

    In many global cities, fusion has become a byword for twenty -first-century gastronomic excess: see New York’s pizza burgers and Singapore’s instant noodle sandwiches. But not so in Lima, the city whose culinary tradition took root as a Hispanic riff on the Incan cooking pot. Later, waves of early nineteenth-century Chinese immigration to the city gave rise to creole cuisines such as Chifa, the Chinese-Peruvian flavour combinations that remain a fond favourite with everyday Limeños; in classic dishes such as arroz chaufa, fried rice with plump white corn, or lomo saltado (beef tenderloin flash - fried in a wok with soy sauce). Chifa's cousin arrived with Japanese migrants in the 1890s, who came to work as fishermen on Lima’s rich shores, married Peruvians, and in Nikkei, a cuisine rich in sashimi and bright citrus flavours, recreated a taste of home. Today Nikkei is one of the most refined of Lima’s fusion cuisines, its apotheosis the fine - dining Peruvian-Japanese restaurant Maido, whose Osaka-trained head chef Mitsuharu Tsumura has given the Peruvian capital the surprisingly glorious barbecued guinea pig (the hallowed food of the Andean Incas) with yucca cream. Meanwhile the chefs behind Novoandina, or the Andean culinary renaissance that began in the 1980s, have also taken up the baton for Lima’s globe-plunderingculinary iconoclasm in dishes such as Cucho La Rosa’s iconic quinotto (quinoa risotto, today the star of me nus from London to LA) and celebrity chef Gastón Acurio’s chicken liver anticuchos (an Incan form of kebab) served meltingly pink with spicy salsa ají amarillo.

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2016-05-27

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Taste Inspirations

Secrets of taste

A stroll through the history of the most beloved ingredients

In 1984, the Australian Tourism Commission started running a TV advert starring the comedian and actor Paul Hogan who a couple of years later would make his name with the film Crocodile Dundee. In the adverts – specifically aimed at encouraging an American audience to visit Down Under – Hogan stands at a barbecue with the famous Sydney Opera House in the background.

In 1868, British-Australian orchardist Maria Ann Smith “tipped out [the] last of some apples brought back from Sydney”. Later, she spotted a small seedling growing amongst the compost and nurtured it. When the little tree eventually bore fruit, their flavour – despite the waxy, vivid green skin – was sweet and juicy and an instant hit with everyone who tasted them: the world famous Granny Smith apple had arrived. 

 

“The Distillers have found out a way to hit the palate of the Poor, by their new fashion'd compound Waters called ‘Geneva’, so that the common People seem not to value the French brandy as usual, and even not to desire it.” So wrote Robinson Crusoe author Daniel Defoe in 1726.

 

Is there a more English meal than a roasted joint of glistening beef, served with Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes and slathered in rich gravy? Just see Richard Leveridge's 1735 song “Roast beef of Old England” for proof (dodgy rhyming scheme aside):

 

Taste Origins

Tales from Taste Lovers

Once upon a Bite

Dame Nelly Melba & Peach Melba

Opera is such an extravagant affair that its association with equally extravagant cuisine comes as no surprise.

Dame Nelly Melba & Peach Melba

Blog

Authors

Our Taste Enthusiastst

Gracie Carroll is the Toronto-based Fashion & Lifestyle blogger of GracieCarroll.com, and the Founder of TheChicCanuck.com.

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