In many global cities, fusion has become a byword for twenty -first-century gastronomic excess: see New York’s pizza burgers and Singapore’s instant noodle sandwiches. But not so in Lima, the city whose culinary tradition took root as a Hispanic riff on the Incan cooking pot. Later, waves of early nineteenth-century Chinese immigration to the city gave rise to creole cuisines such as Chifa, the Chinese-Peruvian flavour combinations that remain a fond favourite with everyday Limeños; in classic dishes such as arroz chaufa, fried rice with plump white corn, or lomo saltado (beef tenderloin flash - fried in a wok with soy sauce). Chifa's cousin arrived with Japanese migrants in the 1890s, who came to work as fishermen on Lima’s rich shores, married Peruvians, and in Nikkei, a cuisine rich in sashimi and bright citrus flavours, recreated a taste of home. Today Nikkei is one of the most refined of Lima’s fusion cuisines, its apotheosis the fine - dining Peruvian-Japanese restaurant Maido, whose Osaka-trained head chef Mitsuharu Tsumura has given the Peruvian capital the surprisingly glorious barbecued guinea pig (the hallowed food of the Andean Incas) with yucca cream. Meanwhile the chefs behind Novoandina, or the Andean culinary renaissance that began in the 1980s, have also taken up the baton for Lima’s globe-plunderingculinary iconoclasm in dishes such as Cucho La Rosa’s iconic quinotto (quinoa risotto, today the star of me nus from London to LA) and celebrity chef Gastón Acurio’s chicken liver anticuchos (an Incan form of kebab) served meltingly pink with spicy salsa ají amarillo.