In the northern part of the city lies the neighbourhood of Nørrebro, where edgy style has replaced dereliction without sacrificing a multicultural vibe. Locals still call it Nørrebronx in honour of its reputation for gangland shootouts, but the area has gone through a transformation over the past decade. The best place to witness this is on Jægersborggade, where The Coffee Collective set up its first open roaster and coffee shop in 2008. At that stage the street was better known for drug dealing than café society – let alone the Michelin star that now adorns Relæ (another pioneer). Now the area is a haven for ceramics and artisan homeware, handcrafted clothes, good food and, of course, great coffee. The surrounding streets are the city’s highest-density residential areas, and contain Denmark’s biggest mix of cultures. Hip young locals call it home, but clever urban planning has ensured that it hasn’t become over-gentrified. Vacant land has been turned into a green bike route that snakes its way through Superkilen Park, where there are 57 everyday objects that represent the area’s 57 different cultural backgrounds. There are still dive bars, kebab shops and graffiti to be found, and in summer, when the likes of Manfreds and Mikkeller set up their street furniture, the cobblestones come alive.